G is for Graffiti

My A to Z of Portugal

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“Graffiti is an impulse to get recognized” Mint & Serf

This is going to be a different post! Despite my best efforts to think of something else for G (without resorting to golf!) the idea of covering graffiti kept coming back to me – so G is for Graffiti in My Personal A to Z of Portugal

It has to be said that wherever you go – you can find graffiti. And it does seem particularly bad in some parts of the Algarve.

So I thought I’d try and find out a bit more and share it with you. According to Wiki the word Graffiti is a ‘mass noun’ used in the plural and the singular is actually ‘graffito’  and is described as the ‘writing or drawings scribbled, scratched, or sprayed illicitly on a wall or other surface in a public place’ The word originates from the Greek γράφειν — graphein— meaning “to write.”

graffiti wall Faro

Wiki then stretches it a bit for me saying that it has existed since ancient times, with examples dating back to Ancient Greece and the Roman Empire. Mmm not sure they would have called it graffiti then!

(I am also reminded instantly of the wonderful sketch in the Life of Brian where Brian is caught daubing abuse in Latin and told off for not conjugating his verbs properly and told to write it out a hundred times – priceless!)

But nowadays it is rightly seen as vandalism; and can be dealt with as such. I am not going to grace the pages of this blog with any clear examples of ‘tags’ or ‘tagging’ – the annoying and pointless expression of a name or nickname which can unfortunately be seen repeated on so many buildings – and not even derelict ones. Only last week we had some ‘pink’ tags added to nearby houses – it is difficult to remove – and difficult to police, and can provide upset and annoyance to home-owners.

But as an artist, I am intrigued by the social and political messages that can be portrayed through graffiti – Banksy is of course the most famous exponent of this form of expression.

Silves graffiti no3

There are also some examples of fine art work and design which can be seen amidst the tags – like the image above from Lagos – and also some strongly political messages and emblems which are often repeated – and added to – in an area.

graffiti wall SIlves

I have no idea what the significance of these pills and bottles mean to the person who sprayed it – but it is intriguing none the less:

graffiti pills and bottles

The graffiti artist will always be found with a can of spray paint – having tried to create art with a spray can I am amazed at the intricacy of some of the work you can see displayed. You can also see images which are made by using stencils which are simply sprayed over – a popular method to create a detailed design very quickly – and which can be repeated over and over again.

graffiti figure stencil

There is an interesting dilemma for councils to contend with – on the one hand condemning the tags and graffiti which are sprayed around the streets, buildings and even public transport – and yet also often wanting to support and encourage legitimate ‘street art’. You can find out more about ‘legal’ sites via this website Legal Walls  - Our nearest site is the Skate Park in Portimão – the Parque de Jogos – which allows legitimate graffiti – I think I might go and check it out and see if there is any decent work!

In 2011 the Guardian newspaper (link to article) reported on the rise of graffiti as ‘urban art’ to be seen in Portugal. In Lisbon this has even been taken a step further with the Crono Project  which actually commissioned artists to use graffiti to transform neglected buildings:

Lisbon street art on building

Photograph: Alexander Silva click for link

The crocodile on the left is by Ericailcane, an Italian artist.

There is even a Galeria de Arte Urbana  which was set up by the council to give street artists a legal place to operate:

Lisbon galeria de street arte

Photograph: Rachel Dixon/Guardian click for link

But this is not confined to Lisbon – I am impressed by this graffiti closer to home, situated near Vilamoura, with an amazing amount of detailed work and design on an old wall:

graffiti wall

There are also examples in Faro which are interesting – there is a brightly decorated derelict house full of eye-catching design:

graffiti building Faro

And as an aside I am also fascinated by the intricately painted hangings which are used to cover up a building which is being renovated near the Cathedral:

wall covering Faro

In Portimão you can find this perplexing image – is it graffiti – or a painting done by the Council to brighten up a wall?

Portimão graffiti wall

And also in Portimão there is an example of the use of art to disguise – in this case the addition of extra windows on an empty building on the first floor – very clever stuff!

Portugal 365 image 17/02/12

And this is my favourite art creating a realistic ‘window’ on a building – it’s obviously old now – but the detail is still there for you to enjoy:

graffiti window

But try as I might, I can find very little in the press which is actually challenging or targeting the tagging and vandalism style graffiti which is around us. In 2010 the Algarve Resident (link) reported that the then Social Democratic (PSD) Algarve MP Mendes Bota had criticised the Ministry of Internal Affairs for its lack of action to stop graffiti vandalism from spreading in the country.

Mendes Bota said: “I travel the country from north to south and I do not like what I see: a country dirtied by graffiti,” he stressed.

The politician has asked the Ministry why the laws available to fight this sort of crime are not being enforced and why more isn’t done by the authorities to prevent graffiti vandalism.

I am uncertain whether this is just not seen as a priority, or that the resources and/or willingness is not in place to tackle this problem – but I have to be honest and say that in some areas it is particularly noticeable – and where public monuments and statues are defaced (for example in the gardens in Silves) and nothing is done to remove it – or tackle it – then it cannot reflect well on our tourism and ‘public’ face of the Algarve region.

Perhaps we need to do more to encourage projects like the Graffiti Olhão project (link) which encouraged legal urban art to be produced – with the aim of encouraging public and particularly youth participation in ‘official’ areas and walls whilst also discouraging illegal vandalism.

Graffiti Olhão

Graffiti Olhão (click for link)

So – is it art? Is it ‘urban art’? Can we ‘legitimise’ some forms of graffiti as ‘art’ whilst also targeting and policing the ‘vandalism’ that we can also see around us? And who decides which work is art and which is not?

Silves graffiti no4

Certainly Dave has found some of the designs on a derelict wall in Lagos particularly inspiring as subjects to photograph.

Silves graffiti no1

What do you think? Do you see the design and art hidden amongst some of the graffiti you see around you – or is it all mindless criminal activity that should be addressed?

I leave you with an interesting quote from Banksy – who is surely the leading ‘face’ of graffiti:

“Painting something that defies the law of the land is good. Painting something that defies the law of the land and the law of gravity at the same time is ideal.” Banksy, ‘Wall and Piece’

Silves graffiti no2

If you have enjoyed this post, which is part of the My Personal A to Z Challenge, then click on the banner below to find more posts that also begin with the letter G!

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The world is a small place after all

Thank you to Jennifer at My Sardinian Life  for letting me know about this – and I just had to put a quick post up to share this with you…

did you know that WordPress is now showing your stats on a map?!

And a really cool inter-active map too! :)

Well I had to go and have a look – and here it is – photo-shopped a bit to show the colours better

map stats from WordPress

WOW! thank you so much to everyone – from all these amazing countries – for visiting this blog.

And a quick random selection of countries shown on the map includes Nigeria, Saudi Arabia, Romania, UAE, Yemen, Malaysia, Viet Nam, Bangladesh, Lithuania, the Maldives, Mauritius, Indonesia, Fiji, Serbia, China, Qatar and Macao…

I am a bit humbled – and amazed by this!

Thank you Jennifer – and thank you WordPress – and thank you – all of you – for coming over and visiting Algarve Blog.

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Interviewing Restless Jo

After the recent success of my Interview with Ben from the Moving to Portugal blog; I thought it would be fun to select some more of my favourite blogs and ask them to answer the same questions. I recently interviewed Sami from the wonderful blog Sami’s Colourful World and now it is the turn of Jo from the equally brilliant RestlessJo blog:

RestlessJo blog

Jo describes herself so well on her blog – “Hi!  I’m Jo!  Johanna when I’m feeling posh, Jan to my Dad, and Joasiu to my Polish family.  A bit of a mix-up, I guess.  The one definite, however, is my restless nature.  I can’t be still for too long, unless of course it’s sunny and I’ve got a good book.  I love to travel and to explore our world.  It doesn’t have to be the big wide world- I can be ridiculously happy not too far from home, so long as I’m out there, just embracing life”.

Jo is also currently part of the ‘My Personal A to Z Challenge’ completing her A to Z of both Portugal and Poland. She writes with passion, humour and skill; and always gives us well researched and beautifully illustrated posts – I am particularly enjoying finding out more about her Polish family.

So that’s Jo introduced to you – and now here are her great answers to my 20 questions – complete with some lovely photographs from Jo’s local area for you to enjoy.

1 Why did you start to write your blog?

I’m just a frustrated travel writer.  I was writing on a regular basis for a venture called Simonseeks, who paid amateurs a minimal fee for their travel guides.  I loved doing it and we developed a nice little community, sharing information and encouragement.  Unfortunately it wasn’t financially viable and after 18months it ended rather unsatisfactorily.  I wrote for a few different sites after that, but finally decided I needed my own voice, and took the plunge with WordPress.

2 Why did you choose where you are currently living?

Accident of birth if you’re talking about Hartlepool.  Mam was born here and Dad was happy to fit in.

If you mean Tavira, we had a little money to invest in a property abroad.  We were going on a family holiday to Vilamoura in Portugal, October 2003, never having been to the country before. I did a bit of research on the net and liked the look of Tavira.  Fell in love with it at first sight, rain and all.  Our son was intensely disappointed as he thought we would buy in somewhere trendy, but we loved its character.  We’ve owned a home there since February 2004 and hope to make it our permanent home someday.

3 What do you love most about where you live?

In both instances it’s proximity to the sea.  Hartlepool is on the north east coast of England with a marina and good beaches (a tad chilly at times- nearly got frostbite Nordic walking there the other day).  I can’t imagine not living close to water.  One of the delights of Tavira for me is the ferry ride to the beach.  There are plenty of others to choose from but that stretch of water is magical with the sun glinting on it.

 

4 If you could live anywhere in the world – where would it be?

Oh, don’t start me off!  I would love to live everywhere-  no idea why I don’t have a gypsy caravan!  I read other blogs with such envy.  I’d never fancied the Dominican Republic but I only have to read Lindsays posts and I want to go.  Same with Sami and Barb in Australia.  Unspoilt beaches and mountains are what call to me most, but I’d give most places a chance (even Doncaster…no offense Doncastrians!)

5 Quick choice:

  • Mac or PC?  PC- only use a Mac when it rains.
  • Starter or dessert? Starter
  • Early morning or late night? Love sunrises and sunsets just about equally.  If I get engrossed I just keep going.
  • Air con or log fire? Fire- proper warmth and toast on a toasting fork
  • Summer or winter? Don’t be silly- Summer of course

6 What book(s) are you reading now?

Just finished “The Love of Stones” by Tobias Hill, which I found fascinating.  I didn’t know much about gems and it travels around the world trying to trace the history of a particular beauty.  Just started Patricia Wastvedt’s “The German Boy.”  Her prose is beautiful.  It’s an aftermath of the war love story basically- very promising.  I love books with foreign settings and I usually have a travel guide or wanderlust tale on the go too.

 

7 Do you have a role model or someone who has inspired you?

Would love to have been Joanna Lumley or Michael Palin in another life.

8 What blogs and web-sites do you read regularly?

Iain Mallory on Mallory Travels; Andrew Petcher Have bag,will travel; Devouring Scotland (fabulous photos), Suzanne Courtney’s The Travelbunny; and Lucy Dodsworth’s On the Luce (met Suze and Lucy on Simonseeks). All the A-Zers of course and I keep adding new travel blogs constantly.

9 For people new to your blog, where should they start?

Good question- I tend to pick a title or place name that grabs me and go from there.  I suppose Talking about Tavira and Discovering Durham sum me up, and there’s Exploring the Polish Connection if that appeals.  Just get lost in there- I love it when I’m visiting a blog and can’t find my way out again.

 

10 What is your favourite meal to order in a restaurant?

We have a lovely local we call Fred’s but it’s really “O Xico” in Tavira, where they do gorgeous salmon on a hot griddle.  I like trying Bacalhaus too- some are more successful than others.  Otherwise, Italian pastas.

11 What were your best subjects at school, and do they relate to your work now?

English lit, history and French.  Only distantly.

12 Do you have any advice for anyone thinking about starting their own blog?

It helps if you have a passion for something or a definite theme.  As you well know Alyson I’m not good with technology so a site like WordPress was great to get me started but in retrospect I think I should have looked around more before jumping in.  It makes a difference if you want to try to make money from your blog or not.

 

13 Where else can we find you on the web or in print – any books, articles, Facebook or Twitter account?

No books (yet) but I have written for Matador Travel, and Thelma and Louise, as well as Simonseeks.  There are some links on my blog.  I’m currently writing for a site called Travelwkly.com which is just getting set up.

14 Can you share one thing about yourself that we would never know about you from reading your blog?

I love to sing.  I once tried out for a local band but was so nervous I forgot all the words to the Beatles, “Michelle”.  Didn’t get the job!

15 For people considering a move to live abroad, what would you recommend they do first?

Research and then probably short term rental to make sure it’s for you and the novelty won’t wear off.

 

16 Can you name three favourite places you would recommend people visit if they are on holiday in your home country?

Grassington in the Yorkshire Dales is a beauty. There’s a link to a guide on my sidebar.

Runswick Bay and Whitby on the Yorkshire coast- spectacular scenery and cliff top walks.

The Lake District- mountains AND water- yes!!!

Do I get to do the Algarve too?  No that’s probably not necessary- you just need to read the blog.

17 What would be your favourite way to spend a weekend that you had all to yourself?

Visit somewhere new of course- I’m a compulsive traveller.  It would have to be a rail or coach trip as I don’t drive.

 

18 Can you speak any other languages and what would you recommend for people wanting to learn a new language?

Immerse yourself in the language- preferably find somebody to speak it with, but if not there are lots of internet sites to help.  Don’t be lazy like me.  I was doing ok with Polish when I attended local classes but the funding ran out and you need self discipline to do it on your own.

I’m a dabbler.  I’ve never really used my French, learnt a bit of Italian then Spanish, and had just got started on Portuguese when Polish became a necessity.

19 What is your favourite:

  • Film? Like soppy films, anything with Paul Newman, and Fred and Ginger….”heaven, I’m in heaven…”
  • Book? Too hard- Joyce Carol Oates, Paulina Simons, Anita Shreve…
  • Album/Music? Michael Buble, Billy Joel, Paul Simon, oh lots!
  • Gadget? Laptop- it’s becoming a source of friction.  I need my own but share with my beloved.

 

20 And finally, where do you think you will be in five years’ time, and what will you be doing?

Hopefully in or near Tavira but it depends a bit on Dad.  I don’t like to abandon him and he wouldn’t come with.  Writing, strolling on beaches, exploring…

Thank you for asking!

Thank you Jo for some wonderful answers – and I really recommend you head over to her blog RestlessJo to read more from this lovely lady.

And Jo has also turned the tables on me – so you can find my answers to some very similar questions on her latest post An Interview with Alyson Sheldrake (gulp! that’s me!!)

And there will be more interviews from my favourite bloggers coming soon!

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F is for Fish

My A to Z of Portugal

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“Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime” Chinese Proverb

Portugal is believed to be ranked 4th in the world for consumption of fish – you cannot walk along any major restaurant area without seeing fish on the menu – and most traditional Portuguese houses have a small rusty barbeque sat beside the front step – so how could I cover anything other than F is for Fish for My Personal A to Z of Portugal!?

fan of fish

With nearly 600 miles of Atlantic coastline – and a history of eating and processing fish that reaches back to at least Roman times – with the proud tradition of being an historic seafaring nation – and with a genuine love of fish with recipes that are handed down from generation to generation – it should be no surprise to find that fish are firmly at the heart of the economic history of this country – and on the plates of many families.

The most important fish species landed in Portugal are sardines, mackerel and horse mackerel, together with molluscs and crustaceans. A trip to your local market – or large supermarket – will however show you the vast diversity and range of fish that are caught and sold locally. The markets are a fascinating experience, full of sights and smells, loud shouts and slippery wet fish being bagged up and sold.

unusual fish

Fishing as an industry

The Portuguese fishing sector is divided into various subsectors, which in turn are divided between industrial fishing and artisanal fishing. According to trade union sources, over 50% of fishing workers work in the small artisanal area.

The Portuguese fishing industry is fairly large and diversified. Fishing vessels are classified according to the area in which they operate, and can be divided into local fishing vessels, coastal fishing vessels and long-distance fishing vessels.

fishing trawler

The local fleet is mainly composed of small traditional vessels. In 2004, 87% of the total fishing fleet was classed as small traditional boats and yet they accounted for only 8% of the total tonnage caught.

Armacao de Pera boat

They are also responsible for providing some of the most recognisable and marketable tourist images on the Algarve – shots of the often beautifully painted and adorned fishing boats nestled in the harbour provide a great tourist postcard shot!

Portugal 365 photo 27/01/2012

Fishing is strictly controlled by a licensing system in which the acquisition, construction or modification of a vessel, and the use of certain fishing methods, requires prior authorisation. Portugal also has to abide by the requirements of the EU Common Fisheries Policy (CFP)

Many fishermen seem to live a very simple uncomplicated life – I am sure that things are much tougher than they seem to an outsider – and new regulations on the amount of sardines that can be caught this year is bound to have an impact.

But this is a proud history and way of life – and Armação de Pêra is a great place to wander across the beach and walk past the many fishermen’s cottages and boats hauled up onto the shore to see this in action today – there is often a very serious game of cards or dominoes in play, with fishermen mending their nets and chatting together.

Fisherman

Sustainable Fish

Sonae which runs Continente and Modelo supermarkets were the first distributors in Portugal to adopt a Sustainable Fish Policy. They proudly display this information – including the ‘Working with Greenpeace’ information above their fish counters – it’s a good sign to look out for. The policy is designed to ensure that all the fish they sell is obtained in such a way as to preserve the environment and sustainability of the oceans.

Cavala fish

Unfortunately not everything has been so well preserved – the once thriving canning factories here in the Algarve now lie in ruins – these are the factories at Ferragudo – where Dave met a lovely old Portuguese lady who now lives opposite the very factories she once worked in – she spoke with fond memories of a bygone age.

Canning factories Ferragudo

For more information and to see what the factories would have been like, I can heartily recommend the Museum at Portimão – I have posted about this previously – Afternoon at the Museum.

Proibido Pescar sign

Gone fishin’

Another regular sight here are the many fishermen (and occasionally women too!) that fish from the beach or pier – having spoken to one, it would seem that a catch is often a rare thing – but as he said to me ‘Why do I care? It is quiet and beautiful here – I am happy!’

Gone fishin

There are also those who prefer their fishing to be a more extreme sport – if you can spot the fisherman in this picture he is on a ledge halfway up the cliff!

fishing on the rocks

Popular fish species

Now the fun begins – after many years of eating out here – I am often still baffled by all the different names and fish on offer.

Popular fish include the following (with an English translation where possible!)

Sardinhas – Sardines (of course!)

Cavala – (Chub) Mackerel

Carapau – Horse Mackerel

Sarda – Atlantic Mackerel

Dourada – Gilthead or Sea (or Golden) Bream

Robalo – Seabass

Atum – Tuna

Arinca – Haddock

Arinca fumada – Smoked Haddock

Pescada / Pescadinha – Hake

Linguado – Dover Sole

Polvo – Octopus

Lulas – Squid

Tamboril – Monkfish

fish at the market

Bacalhau

Drying and salting are ancient methods of preservation of fish – and the Portuguese are well known for their salted cod – or Bacalhau.

There are rumoured to be over a 1,000 different recipes – and many locals will tell you there are as many different ways to prepare it as there are days in the year. It is also often referred to as being the ‘national dish of Portugal’.

Bacalhau

My thanks goes to the blog Pasto for their great Bacalhau com natas recipe –  it really is very easy to make and delicious!

Sardines

A staple part of the simple and healthy Portuguese diet – and on virtually every menu in the Algarve. They are usually grilled with sea salt and offered with boiled potatoes and a simple salad. Personally I have to admit that all the bones and fuss are a bit much for me – give me Carapau any day! The traditional season for sardines is July and August – we have an amazing Sardine Festival in Portimão in early August which is always worth visiting! You can try them at many of the sardine restaurants that line the waterfront – 5€ should get you half a dozen sardines (with side salad and potatoes if you shop around! – each restaurant advertises slightly different offers!)

fishes

My favourite dishes

Portuguese fish recipes are prepared in many different ways, you can boil or bake it, make a fish soup or even stew it with rice or potatoes, but the simplest way is definitely grilled – the smell of the barbecue firing up is a daily occurrence where we live and many of our neighbours seem to eat grilled fish virtually every day!

The best blog I have found so far is Pasto – Cooking from a Portuguese perspective – they have great recipes which are easy to follow with lovely photographs.

Some of the recipes I am looking forward to trying are all from the Pasto blog:

Chorizo stuffed squid/Lulas recheadas

Monkfish Skewers/Espetada de Tamboril

Grilled Sea Bream with roast red pepper butter/Dourada grelhada com molho de manteiga e pimentos

Salted Cod and Chick Pea Salad/Salada de Grão com Bacalhau

One of our favourites is Dourada – with a liberal splash of olive oil, seasoned and sprinkled with sesame seeds – then baked in the oven for about 25 minutes depending on its size. The sesame seeds make the skin taste amazing – or you could try chilli flakes instead.

And if anyone has any more recipes they can recommend – please let me know!

fish restaurant sign

A word about shopping for fish too – most supermarkets will clean and gut your fish for you if you ask them – or even fillet the larger fish. We learnt that a good phrase to know is ‘com a cabeça’ (‘with the head’) – for some reason finding out we were English usually meant the assistant immediately went to try to chop the head off the fish – if anyone knows why this is – please let me know!

fishes on ice

So next time you are in a local supermarket – or better still – a local market – why not try out a new fish? There are so many to choose from – I had fun only yesterday laughing with our local fishmonger as we bought two Carapau for our supper – the fish she selected were a lovely size – but one of them had its mouth wide open – I joked that it was a singer and was singing to us (my Portuguese can just about stretch to that!) and she replied that it was probably actually screaming as he died (!) and that wouldn’t you scream if you were drowning!?! Fair point I guess! I hope they had a more gentle end than that though!

I am always fascinated by the weird and wonderful fish on display – and I leave you with one of my favourites – there’s no way this fella would go down without a fight!!

scary fish

If you have enjoyed this post, which is part of the My Personal A to Z Challenge, then click on the banner below to find more posts that also begin with the letter F!

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and you can click here on this button if you have missed any of My Personal A to Z of Portugal posts so far:

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E is for Economy

My A to Z of Portugal

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“Money is the barometer of a society’s virtue” Ayn Rand

I am no Economist – so please don’t expect this to be an in-depth serious economical or political debate! There has been so much written and spoken about the current global economic downfall – and every day on the news there is more to digest and follow.

But the current crisis affecting a large portion of the world has certainly had an impact in Portugal – so I couldn’t pass over the Economy in this A to Z of Portugal.

Alongside a bit of economic context I’ll have a go at explaining what the current climate actually feels like out here – in terms of lifestyle, shopping and business opportunities – and apologies for those of you reading who know far more about this than I ever will! (And please do add your comments at the bottom – this is a ‘starter for ten’ post!)

Saldos sign 3

The Eurozone

Portugal has been part of the Eurozone since its inception, moving over in virtual terms to the Euro currency on the 1st January 1999; having previously used the Escudo since its introduction on 22 May 1911, after the 1910 Republican revolution. In 2002 new Euro notes and coins began to circulate – and it was shortly after this that we first visited both Spain and the Algarve on holiday. I can remember being surprised that things instantly seemed to be more expensive – even with a strong ‘exchange rate’ – and that was ten years ago.

The last few years have seen the pound steadily dip against the Euro – long gone are the days of a 1.50 exchange rate – I can even remember the heady heights of 1.70 – two winters ago we even dropped to a 1:1 rate – a bit of a shock that one! For anyone who is relying on investments or pensions for their income in the sun, the low interest rates we now have across Europe have also had a detrimental effect upon people’s wallets and purses.

Being in the EU was obviously a good thing for Portugal and they initially benefitted from a glut of EU funds for improving their infrastructure – resulting in a large number of new motorways and public buildings – but I am not sure how much planning or organisation went into some of the construction programmes – for example we have an amazing new Conference Centre at the bottom of the hill – but until the Germans discovered it as the venue for launching the new Series 3 BMW in the New Year – it had been used at best half a dozen times a year.

Tourism

The service sector is now Portugal’s largest employer, having overtaken the traditional manufacturing and agriculture industries. Here in the Algarve, service and tourism has always been king.

But the signs are here too that all is not well. We have seen many restaurants close down; and a large percentage closed in October/November with ‘closed for holidays – re-open February’ signs – some shops have closed for the winter until April.

Empty restaurant

We have changed our habits a lot – we are on a tight budget now – and unlike the holidays we used to take when we would often eat out – now we eat out perhaps once or twice a month – and we are always looking for a ‘prato do dia’ all-in menu for 6.50€ or 7.50€ per head.

restaurant menu

too expensive - and in English :(

Cost of Living

The IVA tax increase in January has also had an effect, with the tax on many food products increasing from 13% to 23%; and the VAT on restaurants also increasing to 23%. Household electric bills rose in October 2011, and are due to increase again in the first quarter of this year. That may feel like small increments if you look at each item individually – but the overall effect is definitely increased bills and food costs. You do feel it!

This article in the Algarve Resident Cost of living Goes Up gives an excellent summary of all the increases and price rises.

Portugal’s GDP per capita is the third lowest in the Euro area, after Malta, Slovakia, and Estonia and Portugal’s GDP contracted by 2.7% in 2008–2009 – the impact on employment and on public finances was especially severe and the budget deficit increased rapidly from 2.8% of GDP in 2008 to 9.4% in 2009. This translated into rapidly increasing government debt, which was already 76.8% in 2009. The European Commission projected that the debt would increase to 107.4% in 2011.

Unemployment rose to 11% in 2010 and the country came under pressure in 2010-11 to regain control of its ballooning budget deficits. In May 2011, Portugal agreed to strict fiscal measures as part of a €78 bn EU/IMF financial support program (that’s a ‘bail out’ to you and I)

The aim is to cut Portugal’s current deficit of 9.1% – which is three times the Eurozone’s limit – to 3% by 2013.

I’m a simple girl at heart – and especially when it comes to finances – and I have no idea how so many countries have got in such a mess – the Victorian principles of budgeting that I grew up with – ‘have you got the money? – can you afford it? – if not – you can’t have it!’ seem simple – but are effective ways of managing your money – however much you have or haven’t got!

Junk Rating

Junk sign

On the 24th November 2011 Portugal has had its debt rating cut by Fitch to so-called “junk” status, and warned it could be cut again.

Fitch made the downgrade because of its “large fiscal imbalances, high indebtedness across all sectors and adverse macroeconomic outlook”.

This means that it would make it more expensive for Portugal to borrow – if it were not already being bailed out.

The Minister for the Economy Álvaro Santos Pereira has recently said that “Portugal was doing everything it needed to do in order to get out of the current situation” and was “doing its homework”. He said it was remarkable that the country was managing to carry out reforms “within a climate of overall agreement and consensus between the unions, company bosses, and the Government.” Algarve Resident article

However Reuters are less optimistic than Sr Pereira – predicting that “Portugal’s economy will shrink as much as Greece’s this year, according to IMF projections. The two will have identical current account deficits and the red ink in Portugal’s budget will be almost as deep as in Greece’s”

Economists do seem united in the belief that Portugal could be given a second bail-out if required though – it seems that the Eurozone is determined that Greece will be a one-off.

“To rise to the challenge, Portugal will need political and social cohesion. Here, economists are guardedly optimistic.

In contrast to the political squabbling and backsliding in Athens that is frustrating the EU, Portugal is governed by a coalition that was elected by voters fully aware that they would face years of austerity and structural reforms to improve Portugal’s dismal competitiveness and productivity…

On the ground they recognize that reforms are necessary and they clearly want to stay in the system,” Owen said. “Portugal perceives that, inside the system, with financing, they’ll eventually come through.” Reuters article

Saldos sign 2

The New York Times agrees: “Lisbon’s center-right coalition government, which came into power last June, insists that it needs more time rather than more money. Prime Minister Pedro Passos Coelho said on Tuesday that Portugal would comply with the agreement reached last May, “whatever the cost.”

The most important advantage that Portugal has is probably its internal political and social consensus.” New York Times article

What is clear on the news and on the street is the different mentality of the Portuguese people compared with the Greeks – there have been several ‘protests’ in Lisbon – but all have passed off peacefully – with stalls, music, flowers, dancing and peaceful demonstrations – a sharp contrast to the riots we have seen in Athens on the news. There is a stoicism – and a seeming overall acceptance of the need for cuts and taxes, and austerity measures, within the local people. I’m not saying they like it any more than we do – but they are not rioting and setting fire to buildings because of it.

However the fact is still there that in September 2013, Lisbon must repay 9 billion Euros of debt.

Banks

Bank ad

And the banks are not doing very well either – The Algarve Resident recently reported that Portugal’s three main private national banks ended 2011 with an historic €1 billion loss.

“Banco Espírito Santo, a financial bedrock that has been around since the 19th century and is a byword for prudent and thrifty financial management, clocked up a loss of €108.8 million.

Despite the losses, the bank’s president, Ricardo Salgado, said that the bank would not go cap in hand to the government for liquidity but would, instead, seek a whip-round from shareholders” – A refreshing response in the current banking world! Algarve Resident article

But how has this recession affected Tourism in the region – the cornerstone of the Algarve industry? – again bad news from the Algarve Resident article:

Worst occupancy levels in 17 years

“Algarve’s overall occupancy level during January was down by 7.6% in comparison to the same month in 2010, making it the worst recorded in the last 17 years, according to data accumulated by AHETA, the region’s hotels and tourist resorts association.

The most significant decreases were from the national and British markets, with -41% and -13% respectively. However, Dutch tourists were up by 44%”

Tax Evasion and eating out

Tax evasion is a key target for the Portuguese government – with some interesting ideas from the government – I am intrigued by a recent ruling by the Portuguese government, which has ordered all banks to send all credit and Multibanco card transactions to the Portuguese tax authorities – who will now receive details of all card payments from restaurants, shops, hotels and other commercial outlets.

This will not identify the consumers making those purchases but will spotlight all the commercial establishments and will allow the tax authority to check against any false claims which may be made by a business – including restaurants.

This is interesting – last year the cost of ‘hiring’ and ‘using’ a credit card machine in many restaurants became so prohibitive for many restaurant and café owners – that most of the restaurants we know locally are now ‘cash only’ – so I am not sure how well this initiative from the government will actually work in practice.

Saldos sign 1

Sales and Shopping

What is clear as we travel around are the fantastically large number of sales that are currently in place in most shops – and not just a paltry 30% off – many shops are advertising 70% or even 80% off their stock. It doesn’t have the feel of an ‘end of season’ sale – many shops seem to be ‘liquidating’ stock. The future does not feel very bright.

We are very thankful for some offers that are currently around – notably with food shopping – we love Continente and its frequent 75% off items and discounts on its loyalty card offers. Their card scheme is a good one – money off that you can actually see increase – and that you can redeem usually only 2-3 weeks after you have collected it. Petrol often has a 5c per litre off voucher – and with their ‘vice-versa’ deal you then get the amount saved on petrol back again as a voucher to use back in store.

But small savings and innovative tax measures may not be enough for the tourism industry which the Algarve relies on so heavily. One example of this heavy reliance on tourism is illustrated in our local square – a pretty little place -but certainly in recent months a quiet place – we currently have a total of six cafés/snack bars and three restaurants (if you add a post office (which may be closing soon) and a very quaint but old fashioned little clothes shop) – that’s the sum total of things in the square. So there’s a renovation of an old building about to be finished – and the rumour is that the ground floor is going to be – yes – you’ve guessed it – another coffee shop/snack bar. I am pretty sure – even for the Portuguese – that there are only so many coffees you can drink in a day! All that will happen is that current trade (already slow) will be further diluted by another establishment.

A22 tolls sign

A22 Tolls

And please don’t get me started on the A22 tolls – which it is believed will have a detrimental effect on tourism – well it will if a recent story reaches the tabloids abroad – couple have a hire car – with a transponder – and do the decent thing at the end of their holiday and go to a post office to pay their toll fees – post office tries to make them pay for ALL the toll fees (weeks of them were outstanding from before they hired the car!) – and when they refused to pay all the other fees – they were refused permission to only pay for their week! Oh dear! I do hope they sort this out before the peak tourist season starts.

So that’s just a snapshot of how things are really – please do add your own thoughts and comments to the post – and I leave you with a fantastic old shot of a building in Portimão that has a very deep and thought-provoking quote painted on the side:

Profit quote

If you have enjoyed this post, which is part of the My Personal A to Z Challenge, then click on the banner below to find more posts that also begin with the letter E!

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iXX12 (International Exchange & Experience 2012) Award – Top 100!

WOoooo!!!!!!! we made it! :)

We’re in the Top 100 blogs!

iXX12 (International Exchange & Experience 2012) Award 

IX12 - Top 100 International Exchange and Experience Blogs 2012

Click on the link here iXX12 to go to the web-site listing all the winners – and an interactive map showing where all the winning blogs are from around the world.

We came 82nd! So we are in the Top 100 – and there were a total of 239 blogs nominated – and as I wrote before … we were really chuffed to be nominated (thank you again whoever you are!) And we are even more excited to find ourselves in the Top 100 blogs!

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Thank you so much to everyone for voting for us – and more importantly thank you for visiting the blog, commenting and liking – and coming back! This makes it all worthwhile :)

And here’s to the next 12 months of blogging!

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‘Convent in Exile’ – Monchique

“All things human hang by a slender thread; and that which seemed to stand strong suddenly falls and sinks in ruins” Ovid

This post is supplementary to our Spotlight on Monchique post which you can read about here.

Convento Nossa Senhora de Desterro – our Lady of Exile Convent

Caminho do Convento sign Monchique

This is a once beautiful – now derelict – 17th century Franciscan convent situated on a hill overlooking Monchique. We had previously been intrigued by this old stately building – obviously ruined and derelict – as you have a great view of it from the wide viewing gallery situated on the opposite side of the city – but we had never ventured to actually find it before!

View of the Monchique Convent

Well with the lure of this blog post and a gap in my photo gallery – we decided to brave the climb to explore the Convent … and here’s the warning – it’s a STEEP long climb! You follow signs like this one – which always make me smile – if you aren’t old and stooped when you start this climb – you will be when you arrive!

Monchique tourist sign

The climb takes you up and out of the main houses – and then into the most picturesque little woodland walk with fantastic views back over Monchique. It is almost British in its woodland feel – with shady trees and windy little path (and it is quite rocky and steep in places – not for the faint hearted!)

What we didn’t realise until a couple of weeks later is all the controversy that is currently surrounding this building! (More about that later!). We arrived at the top and initially thought it was all closed off and abandoned – it is certainly an imposing – and sadly neglected sight – but you can still get a feel for how majestic and wonderful it would have been when it was in its full splendour:

Monchique Convent exterior

We were greeted by an older Portuguese gentleman – who looked quite astonished to see us – and acted as if he hadn’t had ‘visitors’ for a long while. We had no idea who he was, but he insisted on showing us around, via a little side door that led into a stunning old courtyard. In our broken Portuguese and his enthusiasm, he explained how old the convent was – drawing the dates in the soil for us!

Monchique Convent 1

And then he left us to explore! It was a truly stunning moment when we started to look around – the climb was definitely worth it as we stumbled into old atriums, chapel, refectory and lots of smaller rooms – all now in a ruined state, but still holding their own charm and history.

Monchique Convent 2

And the light streaming through the open roof made for some different photographs.

Monchique Convent 3

The courtyard was beautiful – and full of chickens, flowering trees and fruit:

Monchique Convent courtyard

The old refectory still had the remains of what would have once been a stunning tiled centrepiece on the wall depicting Leonardo da Vinci’s the Last Supper:

Monchique Convent refectory tiles

And there are still old tiled crosses visible on the walls – that apparently made up part of what was known as the Via Sacra – the Sacred Way – a religious prayer path within the convent walls.

Monchique Convent tiled cross

As we left the old man gave me a flower plucked from the magnolia tree and was effusive in his praise – and pride – for the old building.

Outside it was sad to see the ruined building decaying and sprayed with graffiti and red painted signs, and we marvelled at how beautiful it would have been when it was first built.

The history of this convent has been detailed by the Algarve Resident newspaper in this article National Monument Abandoned 

“The convent of Nossa Senhora do Desterro, Our Lady of Exile, was founded in 1631 by Pêro da Silva, who later became the vice-Roy of India. According to legend, the founding of the convent was due to a promise made by two sailors at sea who swore to build a church at the first site of Portuguese land. The legend also says that the founder brought with him a small ivory image of the Saint (sic), which the monks venerated after his death as a relic until in 1834 it was hidden to save it from the strong winds before being recovered by a local lady. Our Lady of Exile’s image is currently stored at the hermitage of S. Sebastião”

And upon further research we also discovered that Pêro da Silva is believed to have been buried at the convent; and that the magnolia tree was allegedly brought back from India by the Viceroy and is thought to be the largest in Europe! (Wonder if I can take a cutting from my flower?!)

Monchique Convent exterior through trees

And that was that – we thought! Until a couple of weeks later – when we read this article in the Resident:

Petition to save abandoned national monument 

“Monchique’s 17th century Franciscan Convent … which has been “abandoned by the authorities and left to be squatted by a family who has lived there for 36 years”

The Algarve Resident visited the site recently and can confirm that the monument has fallen into a serious state of decay and disrepair.

Graffiti has gradually spread around the walls of the building with messages painted in red suggesting that visitors should keep away. Words such as private, family and dog can be read in English.

We tried to speak to the family by knocking on a side door to the convent but no one answered. Access to the inside of the convent was virtually impossible with doors and windows bricked up and dense vegetation blocking entry.

They have set up a petition which states: “It’s urgent that the authorities preserve the convent and make it safe for people to visit as well as provide better conditions for the resident family, the natural guardians of the building.”

Monchique Convent old doors

You can find the petition via the link here - and as the petition states

“The Convent of Our Lady of Exile is a place alive with soul”

It would be such a shame to see it fall into further disrepair and ruin.

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